Paris- Love Letter to a Stranger

Je T'aime Paris

Yes Paris is romantic! Love is just in the air; it's true! How can anyone deny it? The art, the architecture, the culture sprawled all over the walls and ceilings and floors of every corner. From the touristy places to every little coffee shop on the paths less travelled; from the elite French restaurants to the lanes selling the Asian food or the cheap pizza slices being sold by Italians; Parisians love Love and Loving!

Eiffel all day

In my four days in Paris; I had it all. There were the late night walks with endless conversations, staying up late to watch the Eiffel sparkle, lying in the parks aimlessly, drinking coffee and tasting exotic chocolates in the quaint streets, the serenade from a stranger and my taking a leap of faith and falling in love and finding the happy ending. My 4 days in Paris were right out of the classic Audrey Hepburn movies with a twist.

My Airbnb flat in Paris was in one of the tallest buildings and I was on the 25th floor. I had romanticised meeting Mr. Eiffel since I can't even remember. And my first view of him sparkling like diamonds in all his glory had left me frozen in awe. With the Sacre Coeur on my right glowing in soft yellow lights on the hill and the Eiffel glittering I had sat up in the chilli balcony till late in the night. Very late.

No matter who says what about the Eiffel, I promise you, it will take your breath away. I spent a whole day just looking at it from all angles and spent the evening on the lawns, watching it come to life as the sun set. No I didn't do the Louvre as it takes a whole day and I don't like the idea of being forced to follow a path, when I have limited time and am so keen on the Impressionist era.

Limburg Orange at Sacre Coeur

The next day I went to Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) Cathedral. Once you take a day pass in Paris, you can use it absolutely anywhere for public transport. To reach Sacre Coeur, you need to first get to Montmatre. The best stop is Pigalle (Metro Stop). Here is the funny part; you need to walk past Moulin Rouge to get to the Sacred Heart Cathedral! IRONY eh?

Once you take the Funicular, you will reach the mountain top with the view of the entire Paris. And again, it will take your breath away! I was very lucky cause not only was the cathedral absolutely gorgeous on the inside, but I was there at just the right time. The choir was singing. Wait, now picture this; you are at the top of a mountain, with the view of the Eiffel, the wind whistling in your ears, the grandeur of the Sacre Couer behind you, you turn around and enter into a cathedral with frescos and the sun shining in from the dome on top and the choir singing with the voices of the angels. It was ethereal and heavenly. I felt overwhelmed and for no particular reason, my eyes welled up. I think I was just so at peace. Each wall, each turn was full of history and angels and Jesus.

Art everywhere in Paris

My friend Craig had flown in from London to join me and as I walked out from there with a bit of a heavy heart, I was avoiding all eye contact with him. When suddenly the air was filled with the joy and sounds of fanfare. Up on the steps of the cathedral, a brass band of old chaps in Orange tees and White pants was revving up the air with "Angels by Robbie Williams". Oh how my mood becomes a slave to music! Forget minutes, in seconds I was already dancing with the women of the band. Craig started talking to one of the players Peter, who ended up knowing about Travelling Boots! Wait, What? So I meet a Dutch Brass Band in Paris and one of the guys knows about me and has read Travelling Boots??? Can you ever imagine my shock? It was my first spotting ever!! Peter introduced me to Claudia and the others in the band as the Indian woman who travels alone and invited us over to Moulin Rouge for their show at night.

Moulin Rouge

I went through the day almost absent mindedly and even though Craig was tired; he was a darling to come back for me. But at night.... the only busy looking Moulin Rouge area; was a full blown naughty street for adults only (wink wink!) with neon lights and all sorts of description of naked shows. So what did I do? Craig and I took crazy, creepy, naughty pictures infront of the red neon lit Moulin Rouge windmill (Haha!) But in the roll of all that fun we forgot about the band momentarily, and then suddenly tried to look for the sound of a brass band. We had no idea where they were so started asking strangers for the Irish Bar..well that's all we knew really!

Soon we heard them... ummm.. the cacophony of the trumpets honestly.. and Craig and I dashed towards the sound like the rats of the Pied Piper. And sadly our luck had run out; the band had just finished their last tune! But I was glad to get a warm welcome from familiar faces (not really.. I was terribly heart-broken to have missed all the music). Claudia and Peter, took me by the shoulders and pointed me towards George, the band manager and asked me to hustle him..George looked serious so I mentally prepared a whole speech to ensure I impressed him so maybe they'd play one more tune.

Claudia and me

But I was wrong, George could barely hear me when I spoke to him, but he knew I was kind of pleading for music and stepped out into the area where the whole band was. Wait, picture this again.. a group of musicians, all over the age of 40.. who had been playing since morning on all sorts of percussion instruments, some were too tired and drunk and sleeping on the tables. He came out and yelled in the midst of them; asking them to wake up for an Indian girl wanted to hear them play. And you know what...they all got up.. cheered for me.. made a circle around me and played Angels for me.. Only for me again... While I stood in the middle.

I was in Paris, travelling alone, and now had a Dutch band called Limburg Orange playing me their favourite tune in the wee hours of the morning.. all looking at me ... tired and yet smiling... For me! Yes only for me! They serenaded me! My first ever Serenade! I broke into tears... cmmmon.. wont you? If you had a band of over 20 strangers Serenade you the to a song called Angels while you were a solo traveller in Paris?

Wait; this wasn't even the best part.. Claudia later asked me what my plans were. I was still overcoming my most precious moments on earth, and told her my vague plans plainly. I hadn't really decided on my dates and plans so told her that I would go to Belgium for a bit and then Switzerland and then Netherlands. When I said Amsterdam, Claudia's eyes sparkled and she announced that she was barely 2 hours away from there and that I should come and see her.

I was a few beers down honestly; so I looked at her square in the eye and said.. "I'm a man with no plan woman, if you gonna make an offer.. I just might take it", and I meant it! She asked me to take her mobile number and to message her later with my dates.

Limburg Orange post my Serenade

She was serious. You know the song by P!nk; Glitter in the Air, hear it.. it has a line .. Have you ever invited a stranger to come inside? Few weeks later, I was in Maastricht. A place I had never heard of, with a woman I only met for 5 minutes in Paris. With her gorgeous and intelligent daughter, their adorable dog, in their home and being driven around in her convertible singing songs out loud.

We both are years apart, grew up in different geographies and cultures and yet.... somehow connected so deep and so spiritually that it's hard to explain at all. We walked in the rain and drank wine while she narrated the rich history of the town to me. I joined Claudia for her band practice where kids from the age of 10 were syncing up some wicked classic tunes along with the old chappies.

I can't put my finger on what happened to me after this experience. I... I've changed! When you meet someone with so much trust and unconditional love for an absolute stranger.. what can I say.. it changes you. Inspires you. Ignites you and Illuminates you.

Yes, Paris is romantic. I for sure found true love there and my happy ending with a friend for life, bound together by the strings of music. With all this news about hatred, I found love! And that is what Paris will remind me of for all my life.

Travelling Boots

Some related videos.. :)

Tired Limburg Orange Serenades ME!

The Choir as Sacre Coeur

Eiffel Sparkles!

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My 5 “I”s of Solo Travel

Inner Peace

I will never get bored of elaborating and explaining and re-iterating that travel teaches. All the quotes are true and yet so limiting. For no matter how much we read the stories and facts or see the high definition pictures, for me; travel makes me. I can clearly recall how certain traits of me have changed with marked experiences through my solo travels.

                                          

You can and will read the stories in my blogs but here are the top 5 reasons why I travel solo and recommend it so whole heartedly.

Be Wild.. haha!

1. Instinct: Just plain Instinct. Not what your heart says, not what your mind thinks. Just Instinct. I have been stuck in some rather scary situations and also in some extremely tempting ones. I’ve made bad decisions and faced the consequences and more importantly; learnt my lessons. And this is the biggest one!

You know the first reaction of your body…? To any situation? The very first one, the withdrawing of the hand when we touch something hot, or how animals defend their young, or how simply our eyes shut to self protect. That is instinct. I’ve learnt to hear it, value it and be in tune with it for self preservation. Our anatomy is built to protect itself and our minds are yet to understand how it happens… well I am to..
When you travel solo and are responsible for yourself, you will face a million moments where you will need to take decisions. I have learnt, to simply trust my instinct. The slightest hesitation in my body language and I stop myself, the moment I feel I can trust and my mind is not crowded with what it has been conditioned to think, I've let go and discovered amazing places and wonderful people.

Shark Diving

2. Impulse: When I'm travelling on my own, I need to keep reminding myself of my safety and budget. Yes, I'm mostly on a tight budget and as many of us, I have my vices. Travelling Solo teaches you to control your impulses and plan better. I have a weakness for shoes and well anything unique I see in my travels. For various reasons, from luggage allowance to money to better plans, I've learnt how to control my wants for my needs. 
For example, I found out that I could go White Shark diving in South Africa but had a limited budget, so I gave up on some much needed coffees and sandwiches and luxurious dining options for this once in a lifetime experience. 
It’s now so easy for me not to splurge on shoes cause I'm looking at them and thinking that this pair may give me some .. some feel good moments but saving this money and spending it on my travel will give me memories I’ll share with my grandchildren .. hahah!

So my solo travel teaches me self control, planning and being wise with money.

Be funny! Be YOU!

     3. Independence: I can only talk about the society I've been brought up in, where most decisions taken by us are… ummm… well communal. Many of us are Financially Independent, but rarely do we really understand the concept of Independence. Here is my concept of Independence. I have a mind of my own and I've learnt to express myself and my ideologies with my own logic. Not by what I was told, but by what I experience. Yes, I can take care of myself and choose not to seek permissions to live my own life.

Sounds easy right? Well, it is! It however does not mean that I don't need anyone. I need my family, my husband, my friends. To love me, support me and suggest me, but Travel taught me to be ok .. rather happy on my own too. When I started travelling solo, we didn't have whatsapp on our mobile phones where I could go into a cafe ask for the wifi code and tell my parents I was ok or see videos on youtube or FB. With days and weeks at hand in a foreign country and no internet, you have no choice but to connect with yourself. And in that connection I found my Inner Peace, my Self-Recognition, my Self-Acceptance and my being comfortable in my own skin for real. And that is my definition of Independence.

Stone Henge

4. Interests: When any of my friends come to me with their guy troubles, I have often used a standard line… “It’s ok.. you are learning what you don't want.” I feel everything that has happened in my life so far has happened for a reason, good or bad. And that we are supposed to learn from it. Had it not been the series of unfortunate events that had happened in my life, I wouldn't be here. Here, with the man I 

      love, in the home I live in, with the friends I've earned and travelling and being able to express my thoughts and feelings by writing. Each incident teaches us a little more about ourselves. What we like, what we don’t, what triggers us, what calms us down.

For example; I went to LA and hated it cause I felt it had no character or history, well.. turned out that even though I hated history as a subject in school I am actually a history buff. The names I crammed only to pass my tests are now my subjects of absolute interest. I used to think I didn't like experimenting with food, I was wrong (thank god!). Unpatriotic people piss me off the most and music can heal me in ways you can't fathom.

Post my accidents I had become … umm… cautious. Yes, Cautious with my body and would never even try the normal stuff. 45 days across 11 countries in Europe and I've figured I can walk for almost 15 Kms in a day and I'm perfectly capable of carrying my suitcase and I can change the tyres of a car without breaking a sweat.

Making Friends in Berlin

5. Intelligence: No I don't mean the regular intelligent. I think travel makes you worldly intelligent. It has made me street smart and oh trained me on how to quickly identify and not put up with bullshitters. I must confess, I was very naive till some years back, but once you are out there on your own, trying to make the best of your time and opportunities, one just does become more intelligent and fast at decision making.

And the other Intelligence, the most under-rated one… Emotional Intelligence. Boy have I learnt to respond instead of reacting and later regretting. Well, I’m still learning to be honest but am definitely on the right path. I now choose to discuss instead of debate, I vent out even the smallest irritants by communicating instead of becoming a pressure cooker. All the exposure to so many cultures and languages and people, changes you. Makes you a better listener, more helpful and broad minded to the literal meaning of it. Tolerant and respectful of everyone's way and reason of being. Something I don't think I would have learnt had I not travelled and come back to a room alone, left to mull over the events of the day and smile about them.

So go on out there… Explore! Experiment! and Excite your life! And get some more of "I"! :)

Explore Yourself!

My Road to Perdition- Prague to Krakow (Auschwitz) 2

The day had already been a series of unfortunate events. There was a missed train, a cancelled train, no food, no sleep, sores on my hands and a stop over at a haunted hostel on a full moon night. I swear at that moment, standing at the train station of Ostrava again, in my head the scene from the Bollywood movie Jab We Met was playing. Where the lead actress was praying to God to not make this night any more eventful. All I needed was to get to Krakow on a decent seat.

On the train.. and the only place I found to sit!

As the train whirred in, it felt like a never ending chain of bogies. All of us waiting at the station cheered looking at each other saying, "Finally!". A little clueless we all just got in anywhere and since we did not have reservations on this train, we all just got in and groups of friends took up any empty sleepers they found. I kept looking for first class cause my God knows I needed the pampering. I walked across many coaches but couldn’t find the first class nor any official. I reached a connection between two coaches that couldn't open so decided to sit there and wait for the Ticket Checker. We soon stopped at the next station and I popped my head out the door, too scared to step out without knowing how far I would need to walk and may miss the train. I looked around for the men in uniforms, but none of them responded to my asking about the first class. So I just hung on till I would find someone who would understand me and give me some information. I looked around, stared at the board giving details about the next train and the stops for the train I was in, just staring blankly. Tried to pronounce the names of the stations to amuse myself, when it suddenly struck me. Like a bolt of lightning. It did not state Krakow. I totally panicked! I saw a man in orange overalls and just looked at him and pointed to inside the train and yelled, "Krakow?" he looked around, looked at the board and just nodded, "No Krakow". What?? What?? I was in the wrong train??? When was this hell of a day going to be over? So I signalled again to him, "Where Krakow?" And he looked around cluelessly, and pointed to the train across the platform and said, "Krakow!" My eyes searched for confirmation and felt silly cause Krakow was written all across the coaches. I jumped right out and made my way to the train, and as I stood there catching my breath, I panicked again. All those people I had met at Ostrava, all were going to Krakow, and now were sleeping all over the longest train I had seen. I couldn't possibly leave them! But I had a suitcase I couldn’t lug anymore! And didn’t even know when the train would leave! I stood smack in the middle of the platform with all these questions, and finally said to myself, "Chuck it, can't live with the guilt!" I left my suitcase there unattended for anyone to steal and ran all the way back knocking windows waking up everyone looking for the faces I had seen at Ostrava. And making violent gestures begging them to come out with their luggage cause they were on the wrong train. They got up and hurried right out in their PJs and socks and luggage and shoes in their hands.

Once I told them what had happened I got hugged and loved by all and we went into our supposed last and final train to Krakow. Now nothing could go wrong! Wrong!

We finally got food and tears came easy

Remember we didn’t have reservations? Now this was a small train and the uniforms of this train somehow just refused to even acknowledge our presence, forget talk to us or listen to us. So we all just huddled into this 1 coach which had one section of 6 sleepers unoccupied, and waited for the Ticket checker to give us his time and assign us some seats somewhere. We all just sat on the floor of this coach. Tired, hungry, clueless, hopeful. Hopeful that once they heard what we had been through they would help us. I got the place outside the toilet which was locked thankfully. When the train started the Ticket Checker got in and walked right all over us, opened the locked cabin as we looked on like puppies, got in and locked the door and drew the curtain. That’s it! We all just stood there. Completely unable to understand what was happening to us. A bunch of girls who were in their cabin, also saw the whole situation and were as dumbstruck as us. Finally one of them asked me what had happened and why were we on the floor even though there was place in the train and I rambled on and on about the entire day. She didn’t interrupt me! She just kept looking at me and nodding in sympathy. When she finally spoke, she said something that broke me.

The Spanish Angels who fed us

Something I just wasn’t prepared for. She said, "Are you hungry? Do you want some food? We have lots of it!" We had been through such cruelty all day, that when she said the most obvious human thing to say I didn’t know what to say. A little awkward, a little ashamed, and very hesitantly I said, "Umm no! I'm ok" She put her hand on my shoulder and said, "Really, we have lots of it. It's no problem!".

We still found some smiles and sleep

I nodded hard and said, "Yes, yes please I'm very hungry!" No words can explain how I was feeling as these girls spoke to each other in Spanish and started giving me all their food. Packets of chips, water, muffins. One boy even gave his half eaten sandwich apologising and asking if it was ok. Ofcourse it was ok! Tears rolled out of my eyes unstoppably. And as I walked around coach waking all the others on the floor with food in my hands, we all broke down.

We were crying because of kindness. We were smiling at our state and crying at the same time. A system that was meant to help us sat in an over-privileged surrounding while we grovelled for the basics. Much like our societies!

The whole moment was melancholic with a strum of tears and vague smiles. Dawn was breaking. We were crossing Auschwitz (one of the worst concentration camps of the Nazis). We were sprawled over the floors and I was still able to sleep next to the toilet, leaning on its door. A layer of haunted fog over the horizon which had seen some horrid cruelties.

No matter how long the day had lasted, it was over. I had connected with people without knowing where they were from. No matter what background I was coming from, there, in that moment, on that train, we were all just travellers. We were borderless. We all cared for each other. I had found love in a hopeless place. The Swedish couple next to me, shared their stories with me to help pass the time. An onlooker from the other side of the locked coaches, Chris also made conversations to help us feel better. I was bruised and battered. But my soul was enriched. Enriched with random acts of kindness all through the day. I was stronger than what I had thought. People were still nice. I had learnt lessons which no school could teach. I knew something in me had changed. Made me better.

The dawn breaking at Auschwitz

My Road to Perdition- Prague to Krakow (Auschwitz) 1

Perdition means hell, doom or destruction.

Well my journey wasn't as dramatic but while those 24 hours are something I am proud of today, that day.. That particular day, there were a series of unfortunate events that made the day longer than the usual. It both shook up my belief in humanity and restored it in ways one can only experience and not fathom.

It was a usual day, I left from my Airbnb apartment in Prague and my lovely hostess had offered to drop me to the station. We just about made it in time and as I dashed through the crowds with a certain confidence but I was up for a surprise. I knew the track number my train was to come on but, there were no clear indications of platform numbers. No they were not sequential. So, I asked the uniforms but apparently either they didn't understand what I was asking or they didn't know too. When I finally met an old man who offered to help me, he looked at the time and simply started running towards the platform with my big blue suitcase and I simply ran after him. There were no lifts or escalators on this station so without asking or offering he looked at me and just picked up my suitcase and started running up the steps. I kept saying thank you, thank you, god bless you while he came to a slow stop as he reached the top of the steps and we both saw the train get away from us in slow motion. We both just kept looking at the tracks and each other with shock, awe and smiles. We walked down together as he showed me where the information counter was and before I could even pull out my phone to take is name he was gone. Just gone! As if God had sent him in my life only for this task and once it was done he was to disappear.

At the Station at Prague

Travelling makes you a very positive person. I have learnt how to not dwell on the problem but start thinking of the next best plans. I mean what's done is done and our crying can't make it better can it? But thinking of ways to get out or get over it, feel like the right way to me. So I played a happy song and walked to the information counter, cause I knew it was now going to be an adventure. The next train was at 1:40 pm, with 2 changes at Ostrava and Katowice. So happy and positive me found a good spot on the floor at the station, got myself a burger, put on my tunes, found a free internet connection and chilled on the station. I helped some people who asked for directions and shared smiles while I was lost in my music. I knew everything will be alright!

Cervenka Station

Time came, I made my way to my assigned bogie and soon I was served champagne in the first class and life was good! Lost in my music, I was disturbed by a certain commotion on the train and the ticket checker asking everyone where they had to get off. When I said Ostrava, he said keep sitting. Apparently some train had caught fire on the tracks ahead of us so we had stopped for a bit. I saw the time; I had 15 minutes at Ostrava to swap trains and head to Katowice. We were already 10 minutes behind time, so again the positive me was thinking "There are too many of us, they are bound to make alternate arrangements for all of us.. so why Panic?" In about half hour, we were told to get off at the station we had paused at. The uniforms were going to organise buses for all of us to go to the closest station and then board trains to Ostrava. We were told that we could only get information from there now. So we waited; a hundred of us soon became hundreds of us at this small little station in the middle of nowhere called Cervenka. We waited for almost 2 hours and then buses started coming and though there was method to the madness, I could not board the first 2. Finally succeeded in my 3rd attempt and got on the bus.

It was a long drive but the girl sitting next to me made time fly. A simpleton, mother of two girls who was going to be without her daughters for the first time. She was so nervous and anxious, but as I comforted her with thoughts of books she could read and all the ME time she would get as she pointed out to her house beyond the church in the fields, her tensed body became more calm and relaxed.

We reached the next station and all got on the train headed to Ostrava. I was sure there were gonna be arrangements there.

Ostrava - The church next to my hotel

OSTRAVA, Ostrava did not have any escalators. Let me remind you we all had been without food since about 2 pm and it was 7:30 pm now. Tired and exhausted I dragged myself with my suitcase up some 50 steps and down 50 steps to get to the reception and ask for next steps to get to Krakow. The lady hit the keys on the keyboard and after a few sighs and nods to herself, she gave me slips of paper and asked me to rush for the next train back on the platform. It was past 8 and the train was at 8:30 pm. So I picked up my suitcase and went up 50 steps and down 50 steps and waited for the train. I HAD to catch this train to Katowice, to take my last connecting train to Krakow at 9. And as I stood alone at that platform staring at the tracks and time, I heard the announcement through the cacophony of freight trains that the train was cancelled. In utter disbelief, I once again, went up 50 steps and down 50 steps with my luggage, back to the lady at the reception and waited for my turn in the queue.

I looked at her and something inside me gave up. No, I wasn't scared. I think I was just fatigued and hungry and had sores on my hands. My back and leg was aching beyond belief. I looked at her and just said, "Do you realise we all are having a hard day? Could you not have just checked if the train was cancelled in a station where there are no escalators?" And I didn't realise but tears started streaming down my face and suddenly I had the empathy of all fellow travellers, who started screaming at her in different languages while I kept repeating I was just tired. Thomas and his friend, another 2 guys on a Eurotrip like me, comforted me and said, "Come let's pick up a beer and figure out what to do.Let's eats something first". As we walked slowly towards the only shop selling sandwiches and drinks, the guy there; BAM shut the door in our faces, showing us the time on his cheap watch. It was past 9 and the shop shut at 9. We 3 stood there shell shocked! There was all this food infront of us and we had the money but…. no humanity. We just wanted food.

At this weak moment I called my brothers and asked them to just get me out of here, anyhow. I wouldn't dare let them know I was crying but I think they figured. Within moments, they had booked me in a hostel 400 mts from the station. Moravia Ostrava; for Rs.800. single room with breakfast. My Blessings, My Brothers! So with all the energy left in my tired body I dragged myself through the dead silent streets of Ostrava to my hostel.

I met George here. An old, frail man with long hair. His wrinkles were somehow filled with stories. I knew he was interesting the moment I met him. I sat at the dim lit reception doing my check in formalities and telling him my ordeals of the day and he made notes cause he wanted to write to the authorities about it. My room was on the third floor. It was too late to get any food, so I requested George to get me some coke so I could knock myself out with a drink for a few hours before deciding on what to do next. I had the option of taking the all night train from Ostrava station at about 2 am or sleep all night and figure what to do in the morning. As we walked up the stairs, to this almost shady hostel, George took it upon himself to educate me about the place. Bad decision! It was almost 100 years old with a haunted history. Yup! You read it! The hostel was haunted! With 2 ghosts of women. Who walked around the corridors. So again, silly me thought, I'll just get in my room, take a shower, have a drink and sleep. Not step out in the corridor AT ALL. Right? Wrong! It was a room for Rs. 800/- Room. Just Room! The bath and toilets were communal. Which now meant I would HAVE to step out of my room. I remember sing out loud while taking the shower cause I was just so scared that I didn't want to hear any sounds outside my door. But the decision to take the night train became obvious.

My Hotel and room at Ostrava

Ofcourse I didn't get any sleep! Waited till 1 am and praying hard I stepped out into the corridor and walked down the steps to get to the station. Now you must know that motion sensory lights are only cool sometimes. In a place known to be haunted, they are creepy like hell. As I was approaching the ground floor and the lights came on, I saw a man's body waiting for me. I screamed out loud! George had decided to help me with my luggage till the station. So kind of him but scared the BBBBJESUS out of me to say the least.

As we walked the cold, lonely road to the station he kept talking about how he felt a connection with me, cause it was a full moon night and he had felt a lot of movement in the spirit world that night. I can't begin to tell you how I had the strongest urge to run away screaming my lungs out and didn't. But he was still warm inspite of his cold conversation. It was wonderfully kind of him to help me.

When we reached the platform, I was relieved for more reasons than one. I saw Thomas and his friend Zeger again, and some more familiar people, and we all were finally going to be heading to Krakow.

The worst was yet to come!

Wait for part 2 :)

Travelling Boots

Unapologetic Request!

Travelling Boots in Vienna

Here is one of the biggest reasons I love to travel. I get to live a life; a life where I'm not perpetually watched and judged. Where I don't feel mentally groped and violated for just being me.

I feel pretty, flattered and above all Free!

I don't quiet know how to start this one so I'm gonna go to the basics. We girls in India are constantly told how to dress, how to behave and how to be good girls in the eyes of the society. Why? Here are the lousy excuses I've heard

- This is India baby!

- You know how men here are!

- Why are you inviting trouble?

And when I've tried to reason it, I've been told Indian men are frustrated! Frustrated? Was I just told that Indian men are Frustrated? Really? Seriously? Wait a minute! Aren't we one of the world's largest population? I just heard on the radio that we will beat China by 2020! And we are the exploding population country inspite of the female infanticide. And correct me if I'm wrong, child birth in India is still happening through sex right? So most of my population is screwing my country out of proportion and yet they remain sex starved? Highest rate of prostitution and yet desperate? Most with stashes of pornography and yet depraved? This doesn't add up does it?

I can't put my finger on it so here is my open letter to understand my men better.

Somewhere near the Black Forests in Germany 

While I'm in any other part of the world, I feel absolutely normal if I'm eating alone in a restaurant or having a drink alone in a bar. I can go watch a movie alone. I can take all kinds of public transport at any time of day or night. I can wear what I feel like. For some days, just a few, I am me! Unadulterated me! Unapologetic me! And no! I know what your conditioned minds are telling you to think. I am not doing anything, not a single thing to get any attention of any kind. I'm just living my life, eating my food, having a drink, taking a walk, travelling and enjoying my moment in the clothes and attitude I'd like. Period.

My dear Indian men; I was so embarrassed when I met people from across the world asking me if India was safe for women, and I had to hang my head low and answer with a sheepishly low volume "No".

No, it's not like men don't approach me or try to flirt with me seeing me alone in certain places, they do! But you know what the difference is? They don't make me feel bad for looking nice. They don't make me feel threatened if I say no. They don't make me feel like just because I'm looking nice and sitting alone that I'm inviting them. And some truly want a good conversation, that's all! And just because we have had a great conversation for a while, I don't feel obligated in any way.

It is so liberating! Just my simple freedom! Does so much for my self esteem, my confidence.

Travelling Boots in Bratislava

Hey you Indian man; when you find a girl interesting or attractive, why do you make us feel bad for looking good? Why be all creepy? How is our feeling harassed a method of you giving us a complement? Why won't you say something nice in a decent manner and make us smile instead? And if we smile and say thank you, not be pathetic and clichéd and think you "got" us?

It's a vicious circle you see? You all keep making us feel uncomfortable for looking nice, so because of parental or societal pressure we keep wearing more clothes. You molest us and violate us anyhow still, so protective people around us tell us not to go anywhere. And then since you don't see any of us you are stamped as desperate! And girls like us hate you with every breath and are praying to god something horrible happens to you. And the strangest phenomena is that now there are groups of you who do this and think it's cool or funny.

Men are men and women are women all over the world. We all want the same basic things, a good home, someone to love, respect in society and above all to be accepted just the way we are.

Why can't we just remember one basic fact? Before being a man or a woman, we are humans. I mean some of you men like being fashionable and some don't right? Some of you wear shorts cause its hot right? Some of you are friendly and some of you are not. Either ways you are being you right? Or is every breath you take a desperate attempt to get the ladies? Don't you have passions and ambitions of your own? Don't you like to pursue them ? Are you expected to quit being you because of your marital status? What if you were pinched, rubbed against, shoved and violated in ridiculous ways just because you looked attractive to somebody? By somebody you'd hate to be touched by? Against your wish? Or made to start wearing something because it was your fault you got molested?

Can you imagine our world? You expect us to look pretty and not all at the same time? You want us to be weak minded and then cheat on us because we are boring. You make cheap jokes about the sexual harassment policies in the office and yet can't understand that you just need to mend your ways. You won't let your wife dress sexy but will check out every attractive girl hoping she was yours.

Oh I love travelling! To get away from most of you. To just read my book in a bar, eat my food in a restaurant without being stared at, to just lie down in a park and stare at the sky, walk around aimlessly, talk to strangers pointlessly, discover wonderful people and do all of the above Solo! Yes I travel solo across the world, unafraid. And it kills me to confess that everytime I step out of my home, I'm insecure, afraid and avoiding any contact with any of you. My family only worries about my comfort when I travel but when I'm here, at home, they worry all the time about my security.

My hope worthy Indian men; I beg you, no I implore you, please just grow up and be mature in your ways because I'd love to see my country and so does the rest of the world without fears in our heads. Just be the wonderful men you are totally capable of being and live your life and let us live ours. 

A peaceful moment - Travelling Boots

Fashion Tips for the Smart Traveller

My Traveler Look!   

1. Sun Block: Never carry one from your own country; you will get the right SPF value one from where ever you travel. Also; your skin may react differently in a new country.
2. Hats: Pick one up from where you travel again, use it and throw or carry back for memory
3. Scarf: A definite must have and must carry. Pick one of those soft cotton ones which you can use anyhow. I used mine to cover my legs while cycling, as a head gear and also wet it and used around my neck and shoulders for those very hot day
4. Lips: Keep your favorite shade of lipstick, gloss of balm always handy, just one. Just for prettier pics.
5. Mascara: Avoid eye liner and use the Mascara instead. This is perfect to make your eyes just pop bright for those close-up pics. Avoid the kajal too, it will smear.
6. Base: Use one only in the evenings or night, it’s too Darn hot! All pics can be fixed for an even skin tone on your phones.
7. Sun Glasses: Keep options of cheap sun glasses, they help change the look easily. Carry a couple and rest buy from flea markets. It’s fun!

   

   Try Different Sun Glasses

8. Hair Care: Just carry your shampoo, your hair will behave strangely in new weather conditions and then pick a serum from where you travel to. My soft curled hair went dry and dead in Europe, went to the closest Sephora and asked for help and was given the perfect Serum. Avoid conditioners they will make your hair limp because of the sweat.
9. Hair Styles: Carry bright colored clips and hair bands and oh try all sorts of styles for sure. Braid it, puff it and try different ponytails.
10. Shoes: Don’t carry more than 2 heels, you won’t need them in Europe. Carry fun colored sneakers or walking shoes and 1 comfy slip-ons
11. Shorts: Carry just 1. Pick a shade best suited for most of your Tees.
12. Skirts: 1 Black and 1 White is my best suggestion, they can match all your tops and you can change your look with your hair and tees
13. Tees: Keep a good combo of lengths and colors. The long ones can be tied up in different knots and change the look from morning to evening. Try not to exceed 15. With all the combinations you could be totally set for many many days.

    

    Different Lengths of Tees

14. Purse: Don’t bother with any I’d say, carry a sling bag, small enough for your lip care, tissues (not wet ones cause you need your sun block to STAY), mascara, your cards and some cash. Carry a backpack for the rest.
15. Thread: For the quick fix for those upper lip hair, learn the figure of 8 self threading.
16. Body Hair: OK, this is tricky, the great news is, Europe is cool about body hair but if you are conscious (I’m really not) pick a cream hair remover from where you travel and DO NOT keep it for any longer than advised, you WILL get skin burns (I’ve done this.. haha!) no matter how coarse the hair growth. Shave the underarms. I won’t advice the cold wax strips as unless you are practiced this can lead to many skin problems.
17. Jewellery: Just carry all sorts of earring. Necklace and Bracelets could be a pain in summers and leave tan marks.. Well also in winters actually. Take a couple of scarves instead.
18. Nails: Keep them short, I've chipped my nails more than once while carrying the suitcase but definitely carry fun shades of nail colors.
19. Night Cream: Make sure you remove make up and apply your favorite night cream before sleeping, your skin will love you for the pampering.
20. WATER: Water, Water, Water. Drink, Drink, Drink. I can’t stress enough on this. Don’t worry about going to the toilet, you barely will. Your body will need a lot of water as there is a lot of walking to do. Keep a small bottle and keep refilling any place you pause at.

And Most Importantly.... HAVE FUN!

Travelling Boots

Universal Travel Checklist

I have often made a checklist before I travel and hoped that somehow there was a checklist somewhere which I could easily refer to and then just add a few personalized items.

So, instead of looking for it; here I've created it :)
Please feel free to add items personal to you, this is a Universal Checklist for all sexes and ages (well grown ups :))

ü  Passport and Visa
ü  Tickets and Insurance
ü  Currency and Travel Card
ü  Camera, charger
ü  Phone and charger
ü  Universal Adapter
ü  1 pair comfy walking shoes
ü  1 pair slippers/floaters
ü  Socks
ü  1 pair fancy shoes for the fun nights
ü  1 cargo pants
ü  1 pair of jeans
ü  12-15 Tees (no matter how long your travel, do not exceed this)
ü  Jacket (if needed)
ü  Shorts
ü  2 party wear
ü  Under garments
ü  Night clothes
ü  Medicines
ü  Toiletries (Toothbrush, Paste (small), Shampoo, Creams, Razors, Nail Cutter, Wet ones, Make up)
ü  Deodorant/ Perfume
ü  Travel Pillow
ü  Music
ü  Reading Material (Books or Kindle)
ü  2 fun belts (Optional)
ü  Sun Glasses
ü  A little bit of your favorite snack (I carry matthi and dry achaar) for those nights when you crave home food or you’ve missed the food timings or had bad food. It can be almost soul food sometimes J (Optional)
ü  Towel: Carry a thin one which can dry easily

Finally.. have a great trip and TRAVEL LIGHT! :)

Sri Lanka- No Strangers Here! Part 2

It was Christmas! My Christmas Morning in Sri Lanka and I had decided to treat myself to a day in the wild. My cab driver was to come and pick me up at 5 am so I had decided to stay up all night with the girls, pub hopping. So Belinda, Eva, Inma and I partied the night away.

My cabbie was a man named Tissa, who was referred to me by Deepak. Deepak and I used to study together in college and when I had updated my status on FB asking for advice on Sri Lanka, he had connected me to this very tech savvy driver. Tissa was contactable on mail and helpful and resourceful enough to not only help me plan my trip but also get me the required discounts and get me through long queues.

Tissa arrived on-time and soon we were on our way. It was supposed to be a 3 hour long drive to Yala National Park. I slept almost instantly in the back seat. When I woke up it was past 10 am and we were still en-route. Tissa updated me that since it had been raining cats and dogs and dragons we were wayyy behind schedule. But he had planned and co-ordinated with the safari guy at the Park to manage accordingly. We reached Yala at about 11 and after a quick coffee and sandwich we were ready to go explore the WILD!

Yala National Park

Yala is known for Leopards and boy was I excited. But nature had completely different plans laid out for me. In my travels; I ensure I hit every and any preserves or zoos I can. I had been very lucky with spottings of the wild beasts everywhere and ofcourse was hoping for the same. I had imagined and hoped I'd get to see a leopard on a tree branch like they show on Discovery.

My ranger arrived soon and the great news was that I was the only passenger in his truck! Anyone who has been on a safari would understand... this is the best thing to happen! This meant I could ask him to stop anywhere for as long as I'd like without feeling guilty for the rest of the passengers. I was elated! It looked like a promising day. In my previous travels, I had seen almost all the wild cats except leopards and just couldn't wait. However, in all my excitement I was oblivious to the fact that it had been raining... Raining! Raining since morning!!

We drove around for hours, with zero visibility and incessant rain and windows rolled up and wet and cold and a driving path with only muddy waters and slush. Hours! Wasted! My ranger did show me pigs... and I said I'm from India dude. Then he showed me some buffaloes and I again said I'm from India dude. Same for a drenched peacock. I think I was so bored that I recall being excited about seeing one.. just one... only one elephant! But soon again; looked at my still determined ranger and said.. I'm from India dude!

I was cold, I was wet, I was hungry by the time we got back to the base. I promptly jumped into Tissa's car and requested to take me to a small shack for some freshly prepared hot and spicy food! It's a very Indian thing to eat something hot and spicy and unhealthy when it rains. I had to feel satiated somehow!

Tissa took me to just the place! A small shabby family run shack! I requested for the best local meal. The food and service that followed... was overwhelming to say the least! I had the grandfather, father and a couple of aunts I believe stand in attention; watching everything I was doing and aching  for my approving reactions.  The simple fish-curry-rice request came with over nine options. I looked at them awkwardly while I ensured I was trying to make them feel as special too. But what a heart warming experience for a cold cold day!

Everyone at home had had an equally dull day being in house arrest due to rains. Belinda, Jose, Sergio, Inma, Eva and I went for dinner gloomily and ate at an Italian restaurant with decent food but grumpy owner!

Christmas was over and Jose, Sergio and my darling and affectionate Inma were leaving the next day.

The next day. The 26th of December. I was in Hikkaduwa on the 10th anniversary of the Tsunami. There is a local tradition in Hikkaduwa; where the surfers would swim deep into the sea and form a circle to offer prayers to all the departed.

The Surfer's offering prayers in Hikkaduwa for Tsunami victims

All of us got up got ready and headed for the beach at sharp 9 am. There was complete silence on the beach. A sea of people; mostly expats; just staring at the sea. Silently. Some of them in tears, some of them lost in thought, leaning over someone and some just sitting still on the beach. It was amazing how the same beach where all of us had partied all night the previous night could look so different today. We all stood still too.. I held on to Belinda's hand. Not a sound except the gushing of the unforgiving waves.

None of us knew a word like Tsunami till that day 10 years ago. And after having seen the photo museum and hear the stories and yet be facing the same waters; I think I felt myself change. The people we lost to the Tsunami, were not my friends; they were not my family; but I cared. And I was mourning them. One of my traveller friend had once explained that it is one thing to know a place by reading about it or surfing the net about it. You can only make one of your senses enjoy that place. But when you are there... when you travel.. you allow all your senses to indulge in that space and experience it by the sounds, the smells, the tastes, the touch. But here I stood with my heart and mind drowned in sorrow like never before. I had seen the news when it happened and ofcourse felt bad, but this was different. I felt different.

I saw some people crying while I tried to fight my own tears and strangers would come and hold them for a bit. Not a word exchanged. No stories asked. Just support and being there and hugging them close. This was the most unreal thing.. experience.. emotion I had ever felt! Unity in tragedy by just being human! No money, no words, no plans could or would have comforted like just a hug! While I sit and write about that day; today; I wish we all hug more! Hugs are therapeutic to the wounded souls! And there is no better feeling to be hugged purely!

Saying bye to my Spanish friends

We bid an emotional bye to Jose, Sergio and Inma. And Belinda then dropped me off to the beach where I could snorkel and swim with the turtles. A good way to get over the heaviness in my head and heart. I rented the gear and dashed into the cool waters. The reef was instantly bursting with colors and life. Now I have a fear! I can swim and snorkel easily but ummm.. only as long as I know how deep the waters are. And oh as long as no water enters my mouth. Ya.. ya.. judge me all you want.. I have some hang ups man!! So after I had seen some spectacular fish and no turtles, I realised I'd have to go deeper. So I went back to the guy I rented the equipment from and asked him to swim with me just for support if I got uneasy.

So here's what happened... we went in deep and began to see the turtles.. oh what a feeling it was to be so close to these magnificent and only cute reptiles. I was holding the arm of my equipment guy till he then suggested and requested if he could hold me around the back instead cause I was restricting his swim. Sounded reasonable so I sheepishly agreed.. ummm.. only to realise that moments later while I experienced complete excitement to almost touching the turtles; our man here had decided to support and manoeuvre me by gripping my ass!! I shrugged him off immediately assuming it was a slip and continued giving my complete attention to the turtles. Shortly our man tried it again. So here I was in the midst of multiple extreme emotions. Seeing and swimming with turtles, in unknown depths of an ocean that had a history of being violent, controlling and hearing my breathing through the snorkel mask while I'm scared and a man trying to make the best of this vulnerable condition!! Men! Stupid stupid beach boys! I first asked him to take me back to shallow waters cause I could not have screamed or hit him being in the ocean so deep. Gave him a mouthful moment I had my feet on the ground and mask off. And that's all I could do!

Seriously! I don't know what some men are thinking.. or rather why they are not thinking 90% of their time!!

Me with Joy and Belinda

Walked off the beach without a shower. Belinda was picking me up to take me for a boxing day lunch tradition she had with a lady called Joy. We picked a bottle of wine and en-route Belinda told me that it was Joy who had initially looped her into the Tsunami Relief program years ago. That Joy was in fact her version of Mother Teresa.

Joy's home was bright and warm and simple. And Joy herself; oh my god! So warm. So loving. So giving. It was so easy to see the purity in her soul. She sat with me asking about me and said things to me that I will remember forever. It was like she could see my soul as easily as I saw hers. Many people came for the lunch and the food was beautiful. Some travel stories exchanged and Belinda and I headed back to the beach for another swim.

Once we got there and started talking that we forgot about the waters and spoke for hours. We spoke about every facet of our lives and even though we had just met and she was merely my airbnb host, we had become friends. And spoke like long lost girlfriends who had met after years. We both got dressed later in the evening and went clubbing to celebrate my last night in Hikkaduwa.

The gorgeous beaches of Hikkaduwa, Galle, Sri Lanka

I had a flight back the next night and had asked Tissa to plan my day and take me around Kandy area. And Boy; is he a planner!? We drove for a few hours and reached Pinnawala, Elephant Orphanage. You can get a 50% off on tickets with your Indian Passport. Tissa did his magic and helped me avoid the long queue. And soon I was inside the elephant haven. The whole family standing together and being friendly to all visitors. You can feed the baby elephants with milk too if you will.

But, while I went close to the baby elephant and the care takers offered to click my pictures; I think I stood next to the naughtiest of em all! The baby started with playing with my stole, and that was cute and I was thinking this will make a great picture. Then.. he started nudging on my shorts.. and I pretended to be playful and try push him away... but soon he had gotten a complete grip of my shorts in his trunk and was pulling hard. You read me? He was pulling hard with his trunk on my shorts.. embarrassment came wayyyy later. And while I struggled with thoughts of being killed my a baby elephant and hollering for help, the crowd and the helpers stood laughing and taking pictures and making videos. Yes, it sounds and may have seemed funny for everyone, but you ask me?? It wasn't funny being the object of desire to an elephant I promise you!

The place has free tours of how elephant dung is converted to paper which you could check out. Next stop was a tea factory where they show you the processing of tea leaves to various types of teas. One can and must purchase the exquisite teas from these factories.

Sri Lanka is also known for its spices so we made a quick stop at a Spice Garden where they take you on a tour to educate you on various plants and some of the stuff is pretty incredible. They also have absolutely natural oils and potions for various ailments.

My last stop was going to be at Kandy, at the Temple of the Tooth. It holds a tooth of Gautam Buddha. The temple is spread out and has a glorious ceremony in the evenings and the walls are full of paintings depicting the entire history of the tooth and the temple. The temple is very important politically and historically and is amazingly peaceful inspite of the large number of visitors. And unlike Colombo, this temple was full of monks ready to help and guide.

Sri Lanka had been full of surprises for me. I made friends I'll cherish forever, I saw people working for improving a place even though this wasn't their own country, I met people who inspired me, I partied hard, touched nature, swam with the turtles, cried for people I never knew and came home with memories of a lifetime!

One stranger less.. Thank you Airbnb!